Out of the glorious maelstrom that was Sunday's Brewer's Plate at the Kimmel Center in Philadelphia, a few moments emerge: a perfect bite of pork perched on a crispy tortilla from Guerrilla Ultima, Weckerly's toasted oat cinnamon ice cream floating in Dock Street's Cinnister Stout, a perfect piece of aged raw milk cheddar on chewy bread from Bobolink Dairy & Bakehouse.
This year's incarnation of Fair Food and Victory Brewing Company's annual collaboration was an embarrassment of riches. There were over 50 pairings of local food and local beer, and the crowd was huge. It was remarkable to see so many local eaters turn out to support not only their own tastebuds but a vital organization for our city's food system.
There were too many things to try — especially when it came to the suds. Many of the breweries brought more than one option; there were also a growing number of hard ciders on offer. Some of the pairings really shined, like Cherry Grove Farm's stupendous, nutty aged cheese with Boxcar Brewing's Belgian tripel or spicy, fried-to-order chorizo-stuffed peppers from Distrito with Victory's beautifully golden DirtWolf Double IPA.
Many of the chefs chose to incorporate beer into their dishes. The aforementioned pork from Guerrilla, our selection for the best bite of the night, featured a brew-infused cheese sauce with just the right amount of funk, and Doe Run Dairy had a series of cheeses washed in various Victory beers.
Of course, the best thing about an event like this is the opportunity to discover your next favorite thing. I couldn't get enough of the tingly, spicy, crispy pickles from EPIC Pickles and I pretty much set up shop in front of Bobolink's table. The Milford, NJ farmers brought four different farmhouse cheeses and an array of rustic wood-fired breads. Plus, how can you resist an enterprise with the URL cowsoutside.com? Some of these local food startups are in their infancy, and could be destined for household name status.
Of course Fair Food's goal is not just to sell tickets, but to showcase the bounty of the region. Every year, this event grows along with the local food economy. Some of the brewer's seemed only a few steps away from basement experimentation, while others such as Dogfish Head and and Victory are national brands. Those mini-evolutions and the evolution of Philadelphia's food scene — not to mention the Avenue of the Arts, visible in all its gloaming-hour glory from the Kimmel Center's third floor balcony — are all connected. It's hard not to feel hopeful — and very full.
LEE STABERT is managing editor of Flying Kite Media and Keystone Edge.